The scenery is fantastic - Train ride from Nuwara Eliya to Ella

Up above the world so high

It was almost December when, on an impulse, a hillside town in the Central Province. Donned in sweaters, we were ready for the three hour drive to Maskeliya through the untouched beauty of the mountain ranges and the hauntingly beautiful Maskeliya Reservoir in the valley.

To reach Maskeliya, there are two routes; a drive on the Avissawella/Hatton (A7) highway, passing Ginigathhena. The road branches off in two directions – one directly proceeds to Hatton and the other via Norton Bridge. We used the Norton Bridge route to reach the Maskeliya town. The road was dotted with errant rocks – the result of landslides, and on a few stretches, they have been eaten away by falling boulders, so badly that there was barely enough space for vehicles. But my son drove on without batting an eyelid. Passing through Norton Bridge, you can catch a glimpse of the Seven Virgin Hills. These magnificent seven cliff peak range is famous for its mysterious tale which dates back to 1974 when a Martinair Flight from Indonesia crashed into these mountains shortly before landing.

Maskeliya is indeed exotic. For one, it has breathtakingly beautiful scenery and a sacred mountain of Sri Pada could be seen in the backdrop of the mighty Moussekelle Reservoir. The quiet and peace was momentarily disturbed only by an occasional bus or a bicycle. As we proceed further, isolated hill towns could be seen in the distance and soon the landscape changed to beautifully pruned tea estates rolling out like a green carpet. Tea pluckers in brightly coloured plastic capes crept across the hillsides gathering the leaves to be sent to one of the nearby tea factories.

We had reached Maskeliya, which has thousands of acres of tea grown area in the Central Highlands. The billowing clouds and mist-curtains magically moved away at the right moment to show us this section of peak wilderness in all its glory – every contour and ridge clearly outlined in the brilliance of the early morning sun.

Sri Pada, the country’s second highest peak is the sacred mountain at 2,223m above sea level venerated by all. The climbing season, when visibility is good for viewing a spectacular dawn from its summit, is from December’s Unduwap Poya (Full Moon Day) to Vesak Poya in May, of the next year. At other times of the year, Maskeliya is forgotten by pilgrims although the town is an intriguing combination of ancient and modern tea country lifestyle.

Maskeliya town straddles three converging tea plantations on the B149 road that runs from Hatton via Dickoya to the Peak Wilderness Sanctuary. The other road leads from Norton Bridge and both roads lead to Nallathanni through the Maskeliya town flanked by the Moussekelle Reservoir. You will see many pilgrims pass by or even base themselves in Maskeliya and Nallathanni during the Sri Pada season.

Most pilgrims who prefer the Hatton/Nallathanni-Dalhousie route come to Hatton, from where it is only 32 kilometres to Sri Pada, and the only access is by road. Pilgrims pass through in buses from Hatton to Nallathanni via Maskeliya.

The old Maskeliya town was initially located in the place where the mighty Moussekelle Reservoir is located today. The reservoir was built damming the Maskeliya Oya in the 1960s to generate mainly, hydro-electricity after inundating the old town of Maskeliya. The new town was relocated uphill just above the reservoir and all the traders given land to build their business premises. During severe drought, the Moussekelle Reservoir dries up and a glimpse of the old Maskeliya town is visible where you can see many ruins, such as, Buddhist temples, Hindu kovils, mosques and old stone bridges built by the colonial tea planters.

During one of my visits to the reservoir bed in the drought season, I stumbled upon a ruined structure of the magnificent Kadireshan Hindu kovil of the old Maskeliya town and found fascinating ruins of stone carvings not found in any other kovil in the area. The saddest fact is, all these priceless treasures were submerged under water.

You can also view the old Sri Pada road which had meandered across the old Maskeliya town to Nallathanniya, which is today confined to nostalgic memories of the bygone era. When the water level of the reservoir recedes, the old granite arched bridge surfaces and can still be seen intact in the old town. The box shaped tall houses and business premises that form Maskeliya’s new town and its Main Street could be part of a cubist painting, with splashes of vibrant green of the surrounding hilly landscape.

Kayankerni Marine Sanctuary

The Kayankeri Marine Sanctuary is an esoteric hideaway. Yes for the discerning tourists who savour diving snorkeling and also for its biodiversity aspects. Also within the equation are the traditional fishermen who will be permitted to engage in their vocation, but dynamiting and bottom nets will be prohibited.

One of the major marine environmental sites within the Eastern coast of Sri Lanka, the reef is located between Vakarei and Kalkudah, North of Batticaloa.

The reef extends from Thennadi Bay, Vandalous Bay, which is the main bay, the Elephant Point Bay towards Kalkudah Bay and spreads 800 metres from the coast, Marine Environment Protection Authority’s General Manager/Chief Executive Officer Dr. P.B. Terney Pradeep Kumara told the Sunday Observer.

Dr. Pradeep Kumara, who is also the University of Ruhuna’s immediate past Head of the Department of Oceanography and Marine Geology, said, “the main part of the reef is roughly 2.5 km in length along the coast at the southern end of the Vandalous Bay. The waters within the inner area of the reef is on an average 1-1.5 m. in depth while the outer ends of the reef may fall down to about 6-7 metres.

Biodiversity

There have been 18 species of Butterfly fish, documented on the reef, which could be seen in crystal clear water.

Some examples of the Butterfly fish are, the Chaetodon species and some of them Chaetodon collaris, Chaetodon cittrinellus, Chaetodon falcula, Chaetodon xanthocephalus,

Chaetodon lineolatus, Chaetodon meyeri, Chaetodonmelanotus, Chaetodon rafflesi, and Chaetodon Triangulum.

These are very prominent and colourful butterfly fish. They live only within the backdrop of healthy corals, and are often referred to as Bio Indicators. The more that these species are present in these habitats, indicates the biodiversity of the habitat. The diversity of their colours attract the tourists. They feed on coral polyps and form their own territories.

Of the Algaes, there are, Caulerpa taxifolia,Ulva sargassam and the Padina species. There are also the sea grass species Halophila and Enhalus corrodes located between coral patches on thin muddy bottoms.They are the only flowering plants on the bottom of the seas, and the only living plants in the ocean. They have roots and rhizome leaves. They also adapt themselves to live in the submerged environments.

There are also the Barrel sponge species which are Xestospongia testudinaria and Sinularia, living in the deep areas up to a depth of 7-8 metres and go up to a depth of 30 metres.

In addition, a diver would see the diversity of the coral species, which would add to the regalia of the diversity. There are the Leather coral species Lobophytum and Staghorn corals Acropora Formosa, Table corals Acropora Hyacinthus, the Rose Coral

Montipora aequituberculata and another diverse array of coral species, Pocillopora damicornis, Pocillopora verrucosa, Pocillopora eydouxi, Porites rus, Favia favus Faviaspeciosa, Favites Favites abdita, Galaxia fascicularis, Goniastrea Leptoseris along with the Sabella sp. Feather duster worms, Panulirus sp Lobsters, Lambis lambis Common Spider Conch and Lambis truncate, the Giant Spider Conch. These are shelled animals and are molluscans.

Also visible to the discerning diver are the Drupa sp. Coral snail and the Conus spp. Cone shell. They add to the colour and the beauty.

Also, visible are Echinothrix calamaris(Sea urchin), Diadema setosum(Black sea urchin)and the Culcita novaeguineae, (the Pin Cushion Sea star). They creep to the bottom and live on flat bottoms.

Conservation efforts

There is a joint all round effort by a large number of stakeholders involving the Kayankerni Marine sanctuary. Fully and acutely conscious of the past, they do not want Kayankerni to be another Hikkaduwa or Unawatuna!The stakeholders in this conservation exercise are spearheaded by the Marine Environment Protection Authority(MEPA), Department of Wildlife Conservation and the District Secretary.

Also to some degree, the other stakeholders include, the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN), the United Nations Development Program, Central Environment Authority, Department of Fisheries, the National Aquaculture Development Authority, the Coast Conservation and Coastal Resources Management Department, the Coast Guard of Sri Lanka, the Sri Lanka Navy, and the District and Divisional Secretariats and other NGOs like Blue Resources Trust. They have formulated a Committee to look after the interests. The ultimate aim is to ensure the sustainability of the reef. Plans are underway to make the location as a case study for Sri Lanka. Bottom set nets and dynamiting will be banned.

Tallest artificial Christmas tree

The Sri Lankan Christmas tree is claimed to be the world’s tallest artificial Christmas tree.^[3][4][5] It is located on the Galle Face Green in Colombo, Sri Lanka. The tree is 238 feet (73 m) tall and opened on 25 December 2016 during Christmas eve night.

The cone-shaped tree is steel-and-wire frame made from scrap metals and woods and covered by plastic nets. It decorated with approximately one million natural pine cones painted gold, green, red and silver colors. It has 600,000 LED bulbs which illuminate the tree at night. On the top of tree there is a 20 feet (6.1 m) tall Christmas star with bulbs, weighing about 60 kg (130 lb). The tree cost Rs 12 million (about US$ 80,000). The tree was constructed by 150 employees of the Sri Lankan Ministry of Ports and Shipping with support from other parties.

Construction work began in August 2016 but was abandoned in first week of December after Catholic Church criticised it as "waste of money", and added "Construction work should be abandoned. Christmas is an occasion for sharing funds with the needy, not to waste money on lavishness... The market economy is using religion as a tool for selling Christmas." Later, work on the tree recommenced after a meeting with Catholic Cardinal Malcolm Ranjith, the archbishop of Colombo.^[6][7] Originally the tree was planned to be 100 metres (330 ft) tall but the height had to be reduced to 73 metres (240 ft) due to the delays in construction. A 20 feet (6.1 m) Santa Claus with a sled is placed near the tree.^[8]

It is believed that the tree broke the previous record of the world's tallest artificial Christmas tree, which was 56 metres (184 ft) tall and constructed in Guangzhou, China in 2015 by GZ ThinkBig Culture Communication Co. Ltd

The blues are back in Trinco

Since the lost whales of Trinco were rediscovered in 2010, by a team of naturalists at ‘Cinnamon Nature Trails', numerous sightings of blue whales, sperm whales and dolphins have taken place making the season up in the East a rewarding experience. The great blue off the coast of Trincomalee seems to be a popular playground for these marvellous marine mammals during March through April each year.

As in previous years, the Cinnamon Nature Trails team is ready to take guests on a voyage that will almost guarantee a sighting of Whales and Dolphins including a glimpse of a super pod of Sperm whales often seen in Trinco during this period. With all safety measures in place and a crew well experienced to make your cruise pleasurable. The Eastern whale watch is set to begin shortly off the city by the sea.

Head of Eco Tourism for John Keells Resorts Chitral Jayatilake mentioned that all guests who will flock to Trinco this season for whale watching are welcome to submit tale fluke images for an ongoing Blue whale ID programme, while clear images once selected will be uploaded to a Flickr site with picture credit.

Chaaya Blu Trincomalee is situated just a few kilometres off Trincomalee and was built to reflect a retro chic design. Its strategic location gives guests the opportunity to experience these large marine mammals and the acrobatic spin of Dolphins just a few minutes away from the resort, or perhaps if one is lucky enough just at the very shores of the sea at Chaaya Blu. A selection of Beach Chalets, Superior rooms and two Suites make up a total of 81 rooms, with two restaurants; one specialized in seafood and two bars which cater to your every whim.

Cinnamon Wild Yala introduces ‘Dining in the Dark’ for the first time in South Asia!

Imagine taking a night time stroll in the forest. The sounds and smells of nature accompanied by a refreshing breeze, the tingling sense of awareness from the quiet, the tangible dark that blankets your surroundings and sets your senses to an exquisite sense of consciousness; that thrill of the unexpected.  Now imagine dining in that darkness.  Exploring unchartered waters, Cinnamon Wild Yala stirs the mysterious territory of dining in the dark, personifying the day to day fine dining experience with a heady twist of sensory awareness. It is a sensual feast to the daring diner; a moment to feel completely alive with that special someone.  Upon arrival the property’s main bar ‘Pug Marks’, the diners are escorted to a secluded unlit dining area in the wilderness within the hotel guided by well-trained staff and offered a signature cocktail customized to the individual palates of the diners or the option of selecting from an extensive list of fine beverages. The dinner itself is a five course Prix fixe dinner that is a mystery menu that has the diners discovering the subtleties of flavors never thought of but taken for granted due to the distraction of sight.  With the flowing wine and the heady scents of food combined with the calls of surrounding nature, it is an experience that sets lasting impressions which are more of a soulful memory than an actual recollection, a moment to be felt than remembered.  

It is a process of eating, identifying, connecting the by identifying the distinctive flavors and textures that signify one dish from the other. The mystery menu is a careful selection of dishes bursting with flavor and is only constrained by dietary restrictions of the diners if any and informed by the client in advance inclusive of any vegetarian or vegan meal preferences. Even the table setting is arranged to heighten the culinary experience of the diner with much effort taken to minimize the visual impact. All culinary selections are tailor made to suit the nationality and individual preferences of the diners to create an exciting sequence of dishes designed to enliven and mystify.  At the end of the dinner, the guests are presented with photographs of the dinner which can then be used to compare and contrast with the wild guesses and the impressions of the diners. Each diner is presented with a token signifying the experience, a tangible memory of the moments spent in the dark. What can be most exciting is the sudden disregard to the mundane rituals of dining. A guest is at complete liberty to prod and poke at their food, sniff at the surrounding scents or even abandon their cutlery altogether. ‘Dining in the dark’ at Cinnamon Wild Yala is a personification of Cinnamon Hotels & Resorts’ flair for exciting and exhilarating experiences, always the first to engage their clients with memorable, lasting experiences.  The lights are out. Let your senses run wild.

The Flamingos are back to Sri Lanka.

The Flamingos are back to Sri Lanka.

Slowly and surely the migratory Flamingos are flocking to north Sri Lanka, although they are shunning the south.

There are about 750 Greater Flamingos in Mannar, about 150 in Jaffna and about 100 on Kayts island this season, says the Joint Secretary of the Ceylon Bird Club, Kithsiri Gunawardena, who has made many a trip up north recently.Although not swelling to the 5,000-6,000 Flamingos recorded in 2003-04, he is happy that the numbers which dropped to about 200 in Mannar between 2007 and 2009 are now on the increase.

The south of Sri Lanka particularly Bundala which used to be colourfully adorned by the beauty of 1,500-2,000 Greater Flamingos.

Going into the intricacies of the sensitivity of the eco-system, in which the balance may be tilted by even mild changes, this avid bird-watcher explains that seven to eight years ago Bundala saw large flocks of Greater Flamingos as the lure was the tiny insect-larvae they preyed on. These larvae thrived in the brackish water-bodies of Bundala but when fresh water got mixed with the brackish water due to the Lunugamvehera project, the salinity dropped and the insect-larvae were not able to survive.No food meant there would be no Greater Flamingos, is the obvious conclusion, and if only environmental experts were called in to minimise the effects, Sri Lanka’s south would still attract these beautiful birds, it is understood.

Lamenting that Flamingos which make their way from the Rann of Kutch in Pakistan where they breed and then migrate south during the winter, have one less habitat now with the loss of Bundala, he urges the protection of what is left – Mannar, Jaffna and Chundikulam.It is a lesson on the exotic birds, both migrant and resident, that Mr. Gunawardena gives when the Sunday Times asks about speculation that the migrants have not come in their usual numbers to Sri Lanka this season.

Sri Lanka has 453 species of birds of which 237 species are resident birds which means that they breed here. The balance 216 bird species are migrants among whom 72 species are considered “vagrants” coming on and off unlike the others which are regulars. Sri Lanka which is at the tip of India shares 89% of all bird species with India but 11% of the resident birds here are endemic.This has come about due to different climates and elevations within our tiny country.. The endemism is due to montane and low-land forests.

Referring to speculation that migrant-bird numbers have dropped, he points out that climate change and the recent floods which have inundated large tracts of land have scattered the ducks and waders. It will only be the Water Fowl Census which is carried out in February that would indicate whether the numbers have dropped or there are fluctuations.Climate change, according to him, which has far-reaching effects has also had an impact on the migratory patterns. Usually, the migrant-season in Sri Lanka is from end-September (2012) to end-March 2013, but the severe winter in the Arctic had brought in its wake, the migrants here as early as March 2012.

Unfortunately, March to August is when the resident-birds breed, but due to the migrants coming in early, the residents have had to face food issues. Some of the waders which arrived in June-July instead of September-October are Black-tailed Godwits and Whimbrels.Getting back to the statistics, that of the 237 resident species, 33 species are endemic and for 90% of these the only home is the low-land forests mainly Sinharaja, Samanala kanda and Knuckles.

This is why there needs to be stringent protection. It is vital to safeguard this endemism by prevention of encroachment into their habitat.The same solution is relevant with regard to migrants – the challenge is to preserve the pristine environment that flagship species such as Flamingos and rare birds such as the Pintail, the Wigeon, the Shovellers and even the Common Teal have made their second home for six months of the year.

Ecology is such a sensitive thing and many factors are inter-connected, he says, comparing it to a car. If one or two nuts and bolts are removed, the car may run for a short while but would ultimately stall and come to a standstill.There are only a few spots in the world like Vidathalthiv, between Pooneryn and Mannar where we can see as many as a million birds at the same time, he says, adding that it is our bounden duty to protect such spots.The greater Flamingos are back to Sri Lanka.